![]() ![]() brightly refreshing eisbecher - a sundae of sherbet, fruits and ice cream. ![]() Among these, the most obvious are the accents of sweet and sour fruit sauces with meat dishes, the use of cool-flavored green herbs and aromatic spices such as dill, juniper and caraway, and the frothy. It is true that many of the themes considered new by the French chefs who are credited with inventing France's nouvelle cuisine are inherent in Austrian-German cooking. Grunauer and his chef are devising what is virtually an original cuisine. But by lightening up on fats and flour, and by garnishing dishes with an unusual rainbow of bright steamed and sauteed vegetables, Mr. Grunauer has devised for his restaurant could be described as nouvelle Viennoise, styles that at first glance might seem mutually exclusive considering the lightness of the nouvelle cuisine and the heaviness of traditional Austrian fare. Grunauer's consistent standards and knowledge of the cuisine has bridged the gap between staff changes, and his almost constant presence has kept cooks and waiters working smoothly and professionally. Were he not, a change of chefs could turn this into a brand new restaurant. This despite the fact that the original chef left early in the fall to be replaced by the former sous-chef, Thomas Ferlesch, who is 24 years old.įull credit for this success belongs to Peter Grunauer, the proprietor, a dedicated cook and student of cuisine. It is gratifying, therefore, to discover that Vienna '79, which received a three-star rating last March, not only has been able to cope with success, but also has improved to the point where it well deserves a four-star rating. The inevitable result of such action is poor food and rude or careless service, and a spate of justified complaints. Whether because of greed or inexperience, a restaurateur who gets a three-star or four-star rating, may pack the house beyond the capacities and temperaments of its kitchen and dining-room staff. ALTHOUGH it seems quite natural that a negative review can damage a restaurant, it may be surprising to learn that a rave sometimes does a kind of damage all its own.
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